The REAL Insider’s Guide to Barcelona

“BENVINGUTS A BARNA AMICS!”———————————————————————————-  

That’s what the locals say in Catalan, “Welcome to Barcelona friends”.

Catalans are a tricky bunch - they walk briskly through the streets of Barcelona, with their heads down, covered almost always head-to-toe in black or brown. If you doddle too long on the street or in a line at the bakery, they will scowl and hiss at you like a mother crocodile abandoning its young.

For many, the dream of living or moving to Barcelona can be hindered by the broad reality that Catalans are not outwardly social to foreigners. In fact, they are downright vicious to people in general on the street, regardless of their nationality. However, if you are able to break into the seemingly unpenetrable social scene, and make Catalan friends, they are the best and most loyal friends you will ever have. They would slay any dragon for you, just as St. George supposedly did according to local lore, at the crest of Mont Blanc in Catalonia.

It is my quest to aid any weary traveler to Barcelona with insider’s information regarding one of the most beautiful and intricate cities in the world. I have heard countless stories of students and vacationers depicting how much fun they had on the Ramblas of Barcelona, only to find out that they saw nothing else. That’s like going to Los Angeles for three days and seeing nothing more than the Hollywood sign.

Did you know that there is an old palace that opens only in the evenings in the Born District of the Gothic Quarter, where you can listen to live opera singers for free, over a glass of cava, in the midst of an old living room covered in dripping candles, flickering lights, and gaudy relics from centuries past?

Did you know that there is bar that hangs off a cliff just below the Tibidabo church, overlooking the entire city - where you can have a beer in near solitude and watch a thunderstorm overtake the city?

Did you know that if you learned just one phrase of Catalan, such as “how do I get to…”, and ask a local that question, they will be so moved that they will be more than likely to walk you all the way there, AND buy you a beer once you get there?

I am here to help people. Ask me anything about Barcelona. Where to go. What to see. What to eat. Where to drink. And I will pass along my 30 years of knowledge discovering the city. I can also help in regards to other parts of Catalonia, Andorra and Spain in general, but be advised that I know more about Barcelona than I do about American history, for example. Sorry, Mrs. Winter from the 4th grade!

Stay tuned - more entries coming soon regarding the trials and tribulations of living in Barcelona, current events in Catalonia and Spain and travel comments to the Iberian peninsula, Balearic Islands and Canaries…

Adeu-ciao 

                                                    Young Spanish Girl and Her Treat

18 Comments

  1. Comment by goodyear on February 26, 2008 12:49 pm

    I’m an american from california who is interested in discovering barcelona and all that it has to offer…how can i find an inexpensive place to stay/room to rent for about 3-6 months or more during this year? What should I budget to discover this city as you have described in your blog…it sounds like a dream. I am used to travelling and will be alone and probably travel to italy and majorca and maybe france, also, but barcelona will be my ”homebase” i think. I have checked a couple apartment rental sites online, but find it hard to believe the cheapest i can find is 85euros a night or 1500euros a month. Is this normal? By the way thank you for your all your tips and information…just great stuff!!

  2. Comment by isabelle on June 5, 2008 11:58 pm

    hi there, going to barcelona and sitges in end of june…wanted to know if you have any suggestions regarding smaller not so turistfilled towns and maybe some winerys….much appreciated! Thanx! Isabelle

  3. Comment by mambo2 on June 9, 2008 3:27 am

    Hola Isabelle!!

    Actually June is a good time to head to Barcelona because its not yet unbearably hot, and the throngs of tourists from July and August have not yet arrived.

    If you find the time…. it is a wonderful day trip to Montserrat outside Barcelona. You can take a train from the city center to Olesa de Monteserrat and then transfer to a funicular that takes you to the top of this stunning and religious mountain. At the top are some amazing views, hiking and the monastery itself. The monastery holds the statue of the patron saint of Catalonia, as well as a very well known Boys choir. The town of Olessa at the time base of the mountain has some great restaurants.

    Just past Sitges is the village of El Vendrell, which is a great example of Catalan architecture and perfect for strolling. Also, about 25 minutes outside Barcelona is the town of Sant Sadurni d’Anoia, in the Penedes valley. This valley is where all of the cava [sparkling wine] is grown, and the village itself is surrounded by wineries. Some are small and family-owned, and you can walk up, knock on the door and ask for a tour and taste. I highly recommend going to the Torres winery which has a very sophisticated tour, train ride and then wine tasting afterwards….

    Enjoy! And Salud!!

  4. Comment by Jane on June 23, 2008 3:15 am

    Hola

    We are coming to Barcelona from Massachusetts with our two kids in August and are looking for music and any festivals going on during the month. Our 15-year old would love to hear some good guitar licks and we’d love to hear just about anything. We’re not looking for anything fancy. Have you got any tips for us? Love your blog so far.

    Thanks,
    Jane

  5. Comment by mambo2 on June 23, 2008 11:34 pm

    Buenos Dias Jane!!

    You guys will have a great time for sure. Mind you, the month of August is the low point in the city of Barcelona as most locals take their vacation and head for either the mountains or the beach. And, it will be very hot and very humid. Be prepared.

    For guitar I would recommend going to the Palau de la musica Catalana to see what concerts they have in August. These tickets may be pricier, but the building interior is architecturally amazing. A cheap option is heading to the Iglesia del Pi in the Plaza del Pi [Gothic Quarter]. Inside the church they have classical guitar concerts three or four nights a week and it is amazing. If your fifteen year old is into more rocker type guitar, have him check out the La Paloma Club which hosts weekly concerts prior to opening for the older crowd. Also, DO NOT miss in August the festival of the District of Gracia. Gracia is a young-bohemian district of Barcelona, on its northern edge, that has their festival in August. You can stroll through the streets of Gracia at night and watch the processions as well as listen to the free open air concerts.

    Have a blast - and thanks for the compliment!!

  6. Comment by Jane on June 25, 2008 2:07 am

    Hi,
    I am going to Barcelona for one week and have a plan to visit Nice (France) too. I heard the hotels are very expensive, do you know any hotels (average price) in Nice with a reasonable price!!

  7. Comment by mambo2 on June 26, 2008 7:16 pm

    Hey there!!

    To be honest, I’m not really an authority on Nice, although it is gorgeous and very expenive b/c it is in the South of France, and its proximity to Monaco.

    That said, you may want to try a hostel instead of a hotel. They are much cheaper, but VERY basic. You also have to share a room with strangers. However, if it is saving money for one or two nights, then it is your best option. I have heard good things about Hotel Meyerbeer Beach, which is a centrally located hostel one block from the beach.

    If you are renting a car, another option would be to look at rooms in towns surrounding Nice which may be cheaper. You might want to look at the towns of Eze, Cimier or Fabron.

    Good Luck!

  8. Comment by Fey on July 2, 2008 3:21 pm

    Hello,
    I will be in Madrid for only one day (unfortunately!!) any suggestions for tour to see the city!!

  9. Comment by mambo2 on July 3, 2008 2:52 am

    ONE DAY??!!!!! That’s terrible!! Madrid deserves at least three days. :)

    That’s ok. I would recommend getting on one of the many bus tours, otherwise you will not be able to navigate this large city in just one day. There is a large city tourist information kiosk in Puerta del Sol, as well as other points in the city. You should sign up for one of the 3-hour or 6-hour bus tours, that way you will hit the major sites and decide what you want to spend more time at next time!! Major attractions include the Prado Museum, Thyssen Museum, Reina Sofia Museum, Plaza Mayor, The Royal Palace, Old Town, Paseo de la Castellana and the Retiro Park.

    Good luck, you have a LOT to get in !!

  10. Comment by Fey on July 3, 2008 7:52 am

    I think your site is greatttttttttttttt!!!!. Thanks for all your help you have great stuff!
    My question is :
    AAA helped me to book a hotel in Madrid: Tryp Alondras {in Jose Abascai 8} for $188 per night. I heard from my friends that the rate is very high for 3 star hotel. I am thinking to cancel the hotel and find another hotel (in the center of city). Since this is the first time I am traveling to Madrid any suggestions would be great.

  11. Comment by mambo2 on July 5, 2008 5:09 pm

    Thanx for the comps!!

    The Tryp Hotels are a chain, and they are usually really nice. I would expect that the hotel is up to par. As far as the price, and with the dollar so high now, 188 for a three star hotel is really pretty standard for Madrid. That’s pretty close to 100 euros, and you will be hard pressed to find a three star hotel for less during the high season. On the plus side… it most likely includes breakfast!! So eat a TON in the morning for free, skip lunch, and right there you save some money. :)

    To get a cheaper option, you can try hostels. However, this means you will have to share rooms with strangers, but if that doesnt bother you, then you can save some money. Other hotel chain option in the city center are the MELIA chain, which are reasonable prices and quite good. There is a Melia hotel on Paseo de la Castellana near Plaza Colon that is really nice. Another nice hotel chain that is reasonable is the NOVOTEL chain with hotels all over Madrid.

    Good luck!!

  12. Comment by Tobi on August 23, 2008 9:17 pm

    I will be spending three full days in Barcelona in November 09. What do you recommend is a must see?

  13. Comment by mambo2 on August 25, 2008 4:11 am

    Well, three days is a good amount of time. You can fit a lot in. Ofcourse the main tourist attractions like the Ramblas, the Gothic Quarter, the Sagrada Familia Church and the Parc Guell. That should take a fair amount of time as it is. However, if you have some extra time, I would really try to get up to Montjuic and see the Olympic Stadium and the old Castle at the top of Montjuic. The views are amazing and the parks are lovely to stroll. You can take the gondola from the port up to Montjuic. If you have some time it would be nice to stroll Paseo de Gracia all the way up to the Gracia District and the labrynth of tiny streets with tons of cafes. You can get a better feel for local Catalan life. A great idea your first day is to go to Plaza Catalunya and take either one of two, or both, double decker tour buses. One does the north side of the city and the other the south. You can sit back and take in the entire city - then go back to what you think you want to spend more time at.

    Feliz Viaje!

  14. Comment by brenda on September 13, 2008 6:15 pm

    i am in a mobility scooter will I be able to get around

  15. Comment by brenda on September 13, 2008 6:16 pm

    Are buses and trains handicapped accessible

  16. Comment by mambo2 on September 13, 2008 7:33 pm

    Definitely. Over the years the city has done a good job making the city buses and trains handicapped accessible. There are still a few metro stops that have not been outfitted yet - but I would say about 90% have.

    Have a great time!!

  17. Comment by Amy on September 15, 2008 2:28 pm

    I have dear friends headed to Barcelona for a “big” birthday. Could you recommend any particularly delicious restaurants for dinner?

  18. Comment by mambo2 on September 16, 2008 1:43 am

    Sure. Any of the restaurants mentioned on this blog are great! If you want a cheap option that is really quite good and fun, is El Mussol. Its a chain, and there are 3 or 4 around town, with large locations and good for groups.

    On the higher end, but with gorgeous views of the city and boats in the harbor is Restaurant La Barceloneta, right in Port Vell.

    Salud!

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