Many of you have probably seen the new Woody Allen film “Vicky Cristina Barcelona” in theaters. I had the opportunity to see it this past weekend, and experienced a flood of emotions as the City of Barcelona moved before my eyes. The cinematography, I must say, was beautiful. But then again, with a city such as Barcelona as your backdrop, it would be pretty hard to mess up a shot. However, I was very disappointed with the cliches throughout the entire movie. Absolutely nothing in the film dealt with “Catalan Identity”.

     In the opening seen we see Vicky and Cristina arriving at the Barcelona airport, sitting in silent melancholy in the back of a taxi cab as they are driven to the city center. They sit aimlessly looking at the new sights, wondering what the summer will bring them. Vicky, we are told, is getting her Masters degree in “Catalan Identity”. If that were the case, she sure wasted the whole summer getting to the root of said identity. In fact, I dont think she even touched the highest branch.

     I know Woody is just playing to the sensibilities and the stereotypes Americans have about Spain. Maybe even Woody used the cliche’s to add a certain frivolity to the lives of these characters lost in their visions of what a perfect life should be. That said, the Catalan language is NEVER heard at any point in the film. The main Spanish characters, played by our friends Penelope and Javier, argue in Spanish at all times and this is dubbed. Classic guitar music is played throughout the film, conjuring deep emotion from Vicky. Yet classic guitar is the fruit of Flamenco passion, and this passion is Andalusian in nature; not Catalan. No effort was made to show daily Catalan life, except for maybe the fact that people in Barcelona eat dinner late and drink copious amounts of wine. In essence, Catalans were made to look like sex-driven lushes. Is it just me??

    Again, I did enjoy the movie very much and thought it was well written. The scenes were beautiful and the interaction among the characters felt real. There is also one scene where Vicky is seen walking out of her “language class”, talking with a tall handsome classmate, with the Sagrada Familia in the background. In reality, this “class” or “university” is not a place of higher learning at all. The scene was filmed at the Hospital de St. Pau. For anyone travelling to Barcelona, taking an afternoon and strolling around this hospital is a definite MUST! It is an exemplary work of Gaudi architecture that few take the time to see. The main entrance and central gardens are gorgeous. Furthermore, there is a pedestrian only promenade that connects it within a 15 minute walk to the Sagrada Familia.

     In conclusion, I do recommend that everyone see “Vicky Cristina Barcelona”. It makes us stop for a moment to think that maybe there is more to life than just email, Blackberry’s and a corporate ladder. Maybe wine and passion can be a part of our daily lives - just as much as conference calls. If we have mastered the art of multi-tasking, then personal happiness should have an appointment in our daily calendar as well.

Saludos…

Now that it is the end of summer, this does not mean that you need to pull out the scarves and search for cozy corners. The weather in Barcelona during the month of September is still wonderful, and probably my favorite beach time of year.

One restaurant that has a prime location for beach-goers or those that want to be near the water is Bestial. This restaurant is part of the Tragaluz Group which is highly regarded for modern design and exquisite cuisine. Bestial is no exception, with an idyllic location right on the Barceloneta Promenade, across from the Hotel Arts, you can enjoy wonderful food with a view of the water. The decor is super modern and people are mainly local, and well dressed. Be warned - entrees can be expensive. That said, Bestial is perfect for an evening dinner, as you can then stroll from your table down the promenade along the beach, and maybe get a night cap at one of the adjacent cafe/bars. Or… maybe you want to stay put?! The contemporary bar at Bestial is a nice locale for a crisp glass of Chardonnay on a balmy September night.

CHEERS!

Carrer Ramon Trias Fargas 2-4, Barcelona 08008. +34.93.224.0407

Metro: Yellow Line - Ciutadella/Vila Olimpica

In 2008, on June 23rd, one of the most insane festivals in the world grips the night air of the City of Barcelona. Its “La revetlla de Sant Joan” as the locals say in Catalan, translated to “The festival of St. John”. The night celebrates the midsummer solstice, and the beginning of the summer period. The festivities revolve around the elements of “fire” and “water”, and walking around the streets of Barcelona on this night can be both harrowing and exhilirating at the same time.

Every district in the city has their own street processions and festivities, but the most dramatic processions revolve around city hall at Plaza Jaime I and the Carrer Ferran. Although illegal, many residents around the city still take old furniture or boxes out into the streets after midnight, and light them on fire to create massive bonfires. Younger barcelonans terrorize pedestrians by throwing fireworks off balconies or from mopeds zipping past. The night of St. John is not for the faint-hearted, and many Americans who happen to be in the city on this night mistakenly ask their hotel concierge if civil strife is beginning in Barcelona.

The most famous processions on St. John are called “correfocs” in Catalan. This literally means “running fire”. Why? Because that is what you do - run with fire. Massive sculptures of dragons driven by humans along with other creatures parade down the narrow streets of Barcelona as fire, sparklers and rockets shoot from their mouths. Local citizens dance either in front of the procession or underneath the cascading sparklers because it is believed that this purifies your soul, and rids you of evil spirits for the remaining year. I have done ONE “correfoc” in my life, and have still not recovered from the trauma. It is recommended that you wear two pairs of loose fitting jeans, a tee-shirt, a sweater and a hooded sweatshirt on top to cover your hair and face. Even with all these measures, you are boung to feel the sting of a sparkler or firework on your body.

Enjoy! Be safe! And beware of firecracker throwing teenagers on mopeds. Those are tricky little buggers…

…certainly take advantage of what the city has to offer. However, the month of July also means the start of some GREAT outdoor music festivals in Barcelona, as well as the surrounding Catalonian region and the Languedoc-Rousillon region in southeastern France. Here are some ideas if you seek to venture out of the Catalonian capital for a day or two:

Colllioure, France ~  Medieval coastal village 45 minutes to the north of Cadaques [2 1/2 from Barcelona], just past the French border. Summer home at one time of Picasso, Derain, Matisse and Chagall. Famous for its pink “hue”, zoning requires every home to be pink. Apparently the music festival is in August, but on July 14th they have a large Bastille Day celebration with fireworks out in the bay.
 
Perpignan, France ~ Largest city in the Languedoc-Roussillon region, and the capital at one time of the Catalonian Kingdom. About 45 minutes from Cadaques taking the freeway [2 1/2 from Barcelona]. You can still visit the Palace of the Catalan Kings and its fortified ramparts. It has a wonderful music/ballet/opera festival that runs through July called “Estivales”. [estivales.com]  The website seems to only be in French, so you may have to call and ask for English support.
 
Festival Castell de Perelada ~ [festivalperelada.com] Housed in the town castle, the programming is wonderful. This year I would probably recommend La Boheme on July 25, 27, or the Night of Catalan Music July 26. The castle houses a high-end casino, which cannot be entered without a suit and tie. There is a restaurant that serves dinner before showtime out in the courtyard, but it can be expensive and not the greatest. Within walking distance is a unique and amazing restaurant called Cal Sagrista, just passed the church. Enjoy a traditional Catalan meal in a village setting, overlooking the rolling green hills of the five star Perelada Golf Club. [For reservations call 972.538.301]
 
Cadaques ~ Around town I recommend having an afternoon beer or coffee on Cap de Creus, in the lighthouse. Furthest point east of mainland Spain. Within walking distance of the house is Dali’s former home which is now a museum. Definite must. Reservations must be made at least a day ahead of time. Alternatively is the Dali museum in Figueres, where he is buried. Figueres is about a 35 minute drive from Cadaques. 20 minutes outside Cadaques is the next village of Port de La Selva. Very pretty town on a huge protected bay famous for windsurfing. On the hill overlooking the town is the Monastery Sant Pere de Rodes. Very impressive. Views are amazing. Just past Port de La Selva, and the next town of Llanca, is a turnout to Playa Garbet. Its in the middle of nowhere, but the restaurant is very high-end, and the ambience is truly relaxing on the beach, sitting on the sand, enjoying cava and some foie-gras.
 
Roses ~ Down the hill from Cadaques is the larger town of Roses. Not very pretty in its own right, but you can drive to Cala Montjoi which is a small cove reached by a harrowing valium-inducing drive through steep vineyards. In the cove sits a very modest building that for the third year has been named the best restaurant in the world. [El Bulli] Chef Ferran Adria. 15 minutes past Roses is the town of Castello d’Empuries, which is an entire Roman village that is still pretty much in tact, overlooking the Mediterranean. It is very interesting and a MUST see for historians or Roman artifact lovers. The mosaic tiled floors are enough to make you gasp in awe.
 
Girona ~ Capital city of the northern most Catalan province in a small but beautiful setting. Its El Call district is the best preserved Jewish quarter in Spain, steps from the cathedral whose claim to fame is being the tallest of any baroque period church. Walking along the dark meandering streets of El Call you come across many specialty shops, pubs and wonderful restaurants.
 
Barcelona ~ I highly recommend going to the concierge or the nearest tourist office and ask about the several musical options. On the Ramblas is the old Opera house [El Liceu] which is amazing, shows weekly in July. There is the Auditori Nacional which houses the symphony orchestra. There is also the Palau de la Musica Catalana, which is a stellar example of Gaudi work, and even worth a tour during the day without going to a concert. Lastly, there is a classical and traditional Catalan music outdoor festival, held in July and August, in the courtyard adjacent to the Palace of the Catalan kings [Gothic Quarter].

     This is my ‘hood people. I’m going to write a glowing depiction of this district of Barcelona, but you have to understand that I spent a lot of time growing up in Les Corts, and have an intimate connection to this corner of the city.

     I know I keep repeating that tourists who come to Barcelona seem to always concentrate on the area around the Ramblas - but it is true. There is so much diversity to the city of Barcelona, encompassed in the various eclectic districts that make up the fabric of the urban quilt. Travelers to this city need to realize that Barcelona during Roman times only embodied the Gothic Quarter that surrounds the main cathedral. This part of the Gothic quarter is bordered by the Ramblas to the south and the Via Laietana to the north. Both of these borders were at one time rivers that enclosed the city of Barcelona. Those who visit the original “Roman” portion of the city will see that during the Gothic period, the city was rebuilt on top of the old Roman base. In fact, there is a Museum that I highly recommend [between the Palace of the Catalan Kings and Plaza Jaume I] were you can go underground and visit the original Roman ramparts which are still in tact underneath the entire Gothic Quarter.

     As the “Gothic” part of Barcelona started bulging at the seems, wealthy Barcelonans started to build larger homes outside the original city in what is now called the “Eixample” district. The word “eixample” literally means “expansion” in Catalan. Over the centuries, the city of Barcelona started to merge with outlying independent villages, and eventually absorbed them into Barcelona. Les Corts is an example of this “swallowing” by the increasingly hungry for space monster known as Barcelona.

     Whereas Les Corts was at one time an independent village, you can still gain a sense of this small town atmosphere walking its historic core. In recent years, the area around Plaza de la Concordia and Plaza Comas has become popular with home buyers wanting a modern flat in a village setting. Apartments, both new and rehabilitated, have been springing up in the old district, flanked by gorgeous art nouveau buildings, a large church and a plethora of local cheese and pastry shops. Living in the historic core is really the best of both words. You can spend a lazy afternoon having a siesta, listening to the church bells, or walk three blocks to the mega mall called L’illa. Les corts is akin to the district of Sarria, where you can feel like you live in a small village, all the while being amidst a cosmopolitan mega-city.

     Shopping is a favorite pasttime for locals in Les Corts - as the main shopping thoroughfare Diagonal intersects the district. On Diagonal you will find a huge El Corte Ingles, the uber-expensive Pedralbes Center mall and the heady L’illa mall complete with restaurants, nightclubs and a four star hotel. Further down Diagonal Boulevard, prior to entering into the frightening roundabout automobile circus [called Plaza Francesc Macia], one will find stores such as DKNY and Armani.

     Soccer fans will be pleased to find that the Camp Nou soccer stadium and museum, home to the Barcelona Soccer team, is located in Les Corts. The stadium is off the Travessera de les Corts on the west-end of the district, and is a must for die hard Barcelona fans. It is shocking to find out that the museum housed in the stadium has more yearly visitors then any museum in the region, some years bypassing the majestic Prado museum in Madrid. Who knew!!

     One thing few tourists to this city realize is that the Les Corts district is also home to the most expensive residential neighborhood in the city - Pedralbes. Pedralbes is a must for any visitor to the city as there are many visual delights to be seen. Besides strolling through the leafy streets lined with enormous apartments or mega mansions, one must walk through the Pedralbes Palace, once home to General Franco when he visited the city. The Palace was built for the Spanish monarchs and boasts fabulous gardens and a museum. It is located on Diagonal next to the University District. Also in Pedralbes is the Pedralbes monastery which is still a working monastery with a devout group of nuns. The amber and pastel colored stone monastery is stunning, and every effort should be made to stroll its garden-lined arches and pathways. You never know, you may run into Princess Cristina of Spain, who resides in the Pedralbes area with her family, and is seen almost daily walking her children along the wide avenues.

     As you can see, Les Corts has a lot to offer. Extricate yourself for awhile from the grip of the Gothic Quarter… and discover this corner of the city.

Metro:  Green Line 3 - Les Corts or Maria Cristina stops.

     I’d like to focus on one of my favorite districts of the city of Barcelona - El Born. Many people think that the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona is one large area that encompasses the oldest parts of the city. While this may be true, the Gothic Quarter is divided into various districts each with its own flavor, history, architectural style and even neighborhood council. The districts vary in size and include EL Raval, La Catedral, El Barri Xines, El Born, among others.

     El Born sits on the northern edge of the Gothic Quarter bounded roughly by Carrer Princesa, the Via Laietana, the large Citadel Park and the Barceloneta District. At its heart sits the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, which to many locals, is the most beautiful cathedral in the entire city. Inside the cathedral you can still see burn marks at the top of the butresses, created during the anti-monarchist/anti-church torchings that arose during the early part of the last century. The main drag of the district is the Passeig del Born with its large trees and old market, that is currently being turned into a library highlighting its magnificent steel art nouveau style.

     At one time El Born was a very poor district where all the fishermen of the city lived. The fishing fleet would be parked in the current Old Port section, just meters from El Born, and the fishing families would spend their days drying the cod, attending church or mingling in the narrow streets. Pedestrians in El Born will at once notice that the streets in this district are narrower than in any other part of the Gothic Quarter. One can get lost in the extremely narrow and dark passages that criss-cross the district.

     During the last ten years El Born has seen a resurgence. Gone are the fishermen, and in have come the hipster 20 or 30 somethings with Diesel jeans and Adidas sneakers. Apartments in the area, which are miniscule, now run anywhere from 600,000 to over a million euros, especially for an upper floor where you can actually get some light. Given the antiquity of the district, the buildings are old and the streets are generally pedestrian only. This means that locals do not have underground parking and must park at the outskirts of the district, hoofing their groceries several blocks. The downside to the district is that it is VERY hot in the summertime and can often smell. The narrowness of the streets does not allow wind to flow through and the atmosphere can be stifling.

      Smells aside, El Born is alive with bars and restaurants that are absolutely amazing. You can walk to your hearts content and take in some tapas at any bar. Shopping is also fantastic at such local haunts like Xocoa chocolatiers or Custo Barcelona. Across the street you can venture into the old Estacio de Franca train station with its arching steel arcades, a perfectly intact emblem of the art nouveau era. In the other direction is the large Citadel Park, named after the fortess that sits at the entrance to the park. The fortress was built by a Spanish king wanting to keep Catalan extremists from exiting the city, or causing trouble. Citadel Park contains a large lake in the middle of its tree strewn expanse, with plenty of grassy corners where you can take a picnic, lie on your back and watch the fluffy clouds go by.

     Metro Yellow Line 5: Jaume I or Barceloneta stops.

     Red Line 1: Arc de Triumf stop

     I wanted to write about one of the most popular spots in Barcelona, because it is important that tourists know the reality of the Port Olimpic. The “Olympic Port” as it is called in Catalan, was created for the Olympics in 1992 as a home base for the sailing competitions. The port is framed by two imposing towers, one being the iconic Hotel Arts [a Ritz-Carlton family hotel] and the other being Torre Mapfre, which houses many corporations and software companies. [I worked on the 7th floor for several years - not that it matters]

     At one time, the novelty of the Port OIimpic brought all Barcelonans down to the water for a great meal at one of the many fine dining establishments rimming the water. However, those days are gone, and the Port Olimpic is a hedonistic drunken locale full of musical bars banging techno and salsa, and catering to the boat loads of weekend northern Europeans that dock in Barcelona. Do not go to the Port Olimpic if you desire to meet locals. Go to the Port Olimpic if you desire to get sloshed on overpriced drinks in a crowded yet beautiful setting, full of eager young people wanting to hook-up. [This isnt always bad...]

     For those desiring a more sophisticated environment at the Port Olimpic, the boardwalk that begins in front of the Hotel Arts and continues on down to the Barceloneta is a great place to stroll on a warm summer’s night. The Hotel Arts has several ranked, yet expensive dining options for those that wish to mingle with celebrities and fashion gliterati. At the beginning of the boardwalk is a Restaurant called “Bestial” which is a bit cheaper than the Hotel Arts, but has an amazing minimalist decor right on the sand. I highly recommend this restaurant, but make reservations. On down the boardwalk are a variety of restaurants which turn into nightclubs such as “Baja Beach” and “Xoco” which can be fun to get your dance-on.

Have fun, and be careful where you put those “beer goggles”!!

Cheers!

     Have you ever dreamed of an idyllic location where green mountains meet an an azure sea? Have you ever wanted to drink an espresso on a quiet beach, listening to the sound of lapping waves, as a hint of lavender and moss fills yours lungs? Have you ever wanted to ascend winding cobblestone streets at midnight, walking the long silent footsteps of artists and musicians that created masterpieces from the same inspiring vistas your eyes are focused on?

     Look no further - the village is called Cadaques, and knowing about it takes you half-way there.

     A two hour drive north from the city of Barcelona will transport you to a bygone era. Nestled among the foothills of the Pyrenees, as they tumble into the sea, lies a village that has been untouched by modern tourism. There are no highrises here and no rows of lounge chairs or beaches. This is where Dali lived most of his adult life, and where Magritte, Picasso and Duchamp stayed extended periods of time to paint the sweeping views. Cadaques has only had a road leading to it since the mid-part of the last century. Prior to that time, local fishermen had seen Cuba and China… and had never laid eyes on Girona, which is a city only 40 minutes away by car.

     Although the winding and narrow road past pine trees and vineyards may make you carsick, the glow of Cadaques’ glistening white church will enliven you. As you descend into the village, its warmth and history will immediately calm your senses.

     Cadaques is a definite must if you have some time to spare, preferably two days. Booking a hotel or hostel is nearly impossible during the high season [July-August] as there are very few rooms in the village. Local hotels Playa Sol, Rocamar and Blaumar are your best bet at a nice room. Hostel Maria Cristina is centrally located on the main square, and very cheap, but it is preferable that you call ahead. Hotel La Residencia was used by Dali frequently for his afternoon drink and chat sessions, and has lovely two-level rooms.

     Aside from strolling through the narrow streets of the “old town”, you must drive to Port Lligat and see Dali’s home which is now a museum. Beyond Dali’s home it’s a short jaunt to Cape Cross and its lighthouse which is the furthest point east on mainland Spain. There are two bars there where you can enjoy an Estrella beer, and take in the utterly amazing vistas of rock and ocean, conjuring up images of Galway in Ireland, or Big Sur in California.

     Once you have been to Cadaques, your heart will have been touched. People say the stones around the village and Cape Cross have mystical powers that give a man strength.

     I know for a fact that this is true…

     - From Barcelona take the A-7 freeway north towards France. Exit on the Figueres-Roses offramp and follow the signs to Roses. Before entering Roses veer off towards Cadaques. Another option is taking the Sarfa Bus from Barcelona’s Estacio del Nord. Buses run daily all year round and are very comfortable and well-equipped -

     Tucked away in the Eixample District is a gem of a tapas bar. We are not talking run-of-the-mill, tourist trap, 99 cent tapas encompassing a stale piece of bread with an anchovy on top. No, these are high-end, haute cuisine tapas that will make your palette sing and induce your tongue to dance Flamenco inside your mouth.

     The name of the restaurant is Paco Meralgo, which at first glance will make one think it is named after a man. However, the name is a play on words, and if you jumble the two together [pacomeralgo], it sounds like an Andalusian saying “something to eat”. It’s genius - really.

     These arent your cheap tapas, either, these may set you back a few euros. However, the food is well worth it. In fact, on a recent visit to the restaurant, we were told to arrive an hour late because the Prince of Spain and his wife Leticia had not yet finished their meal. The location is very small, and tight, and the restaurant is always bulging at the seams with people. Make sure to call ahead, or go at low meal times in Barcelona, avoiding the 2 to 4 and 9 to 11 lunch and dinner rushes. The decor is minimalist, and the centerpiece of the restaurant is a huge “U”- shaped bar where you can sit looking at all the fresh seafood and vegetables while the waiters and cooks make fun of the way you are dressed, or beat each other over the shoulders with loaves of bread regarding a soccer dispute. Half the waiters are fans of Real Madrid and the other half are fans of Barca…. this can create a conflictive environment that includes the hurling of bread.

     The environment is VERY yuppy. Be aware that you are going to where the upper-crust of Catalan society dines for a quick bite, and you will be surrounded by a sea of Polo Ralph Laurens, with a brigade of Porsche Cayennes double-parked outside. That said, the atmosphere is friendly yet loud and cramped, but the food is a new take on tapas, and well worth the effort.

     Carrer Muntaner 171

     Metro:  Hospital Clinic, Line 1

     There is one street in Barcelona that, to me, encompasses the old spirit of the city. Before the Olympics, before the sprawling tree-lined boulevards, even before the insanely popular tapas bars full of blond Scandinavian tourists, Barcelona was a mystical, inward-looking city full of dark narrow alleys and menacing gargoyles.

     My favorite street in all of Barcelona is Carrer Petritxol. To me, it embraces what the city used to be, amidst the frenetic modern and cosmpolitan beacon that it has become. Petritxol is very small street in length and particularly small in girth. On crowded Sundays in the summer, you may need a shoe horn to dislodge yourself from the people around you. It begins on the extremely busy shopping corridor of Carrer de la Portaferrissa. As you walk down the Ramblas you hang a left onto Porteferrisa, and immediately turn right onto Petritxol. Once on Petritxol you are immediately transported back to a time of powerful kings, naval wars and humble citizens trying to make a living. On either side of the street remain old ceramic tiles that tell stories in Catalan. Bring a dictionary or a guide because they are quite funny. The street has become a haven for art gallery’s, but the REAL reason to stroll down Petritxol, especially in the wintertime, is for the “Churros con Chocolate”.

     A favorite winter pasttime for Barcelonans is going out into the frigid air and finding a bar that sells churros with dark milky chocolate. You dunk the bready churro into the chocolate, and give your tastebuds an orgasm as the churros hit the inside of your mouth. As you head down Petritxol there is a small bar on your left that looks tiny. However, on a cold day, step into the bar, order some churros, and get ready for a caloric intake that will far exceed any time you could spend on a treadmill. It is well worth it.

     At the end of Petritxol you will find yourself in Plaza del Pi and the facade of the Church del Pi. This is a magical point in the city, especially on Sundays where there is a farmers market. The church sponsors cheap concerts for classical guitar music, and it is well worth the 15 euros to watch a concert in this majestic church.