The Village of Cadaques

     Have you ever dreamed of an idyllic location where green mountains meet an an azure sea? Have you ever wanted to drink an espresso on a quiet beach, listening to the sound of lapping waves, as a hint of lavender and moss fills yours lungs? Have you ever wanted to ascend winding cobblestone streets at midnight, walking the long silent footsteps of artists and musicians that created masterpieces from the same inspiring vistas your eyes are focused on?

     Look no further - the village is called Cadaques, and knowing about it takes you half-way there.

                                   

     A two hour drive north from the city of Barcelona will transport you to a bygone era. Nestled among the foothills of the Pyrenees, as they tumble into the sea, lies a village that has been untouched by modern tourism. There are no highrises here and no rows of lounge chairs or beaches. This is where Dali lived most of his adult life, and where Magritte, Picasso and Duchamp stayed extended periods of time to paint the sweeping views. Cadaques has only had a road leading to it since the mid-part of the last century. Prior to that time, local fishermen had seen Cuba and China… and had never laid eyes on Girona, which is a city only 40 minutes away by car.

                                   

     Although the winding and narrow road past pine trees and vineyards may make you carsick, the glow of Cadaques’ glistening white church will enliven you. As you descend into the village, its warmth and history will immediately calm your senses.

     Cadaques is a definite must if you have some time to spare, preferably two days. Booking a hotel or hostel is nearly impossible during the high season [July-August] as there are very few rooms in the village. Local hotels Playa Sol, Rocamar and Blaumar are your best bet at a nice room. Hostel Maria Cristina is centrally located on the main square, and very cheap, but it is preferable that you call ahead. Hotel La Residencia was used by Dali frequently for his afternoon drink and chat sessions, and has lovely two-level rooms.

     Aside from strolling through the narrow streets of the “old town”, you must drive to Port Lligat and see Dali’s home which is now a museum. Beyond Dali’s home it’s a short jaunt to Cape Cross and its lighthouse which is the furthest point east on mainland Spain. There are two bars there where you can enjoy an Estrella beer, and take in the utterly amazing vistas of rock and ocean, conjuring up images of Galway in Ireland, or Big Sur in California.

                                        

     Once you have been to Cadaques, your heart will have been touched. People say the stones around the village and Cape Cross have mystical powers that give a man strength.

     I know for a fact that this is true…

     - From Barcelona take the A-7 freeway north towards France. Exit on the Figueres-Roses offramp and follow the signs to Roses. Before entering Roses veer off towards Cadaques. Another option is taking the Sarfa Bus from Barcelona’s Estacio del Nord. Buses run daily all year round and are very comfortable and well-equipped -

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