Les Corts

     This is my ‘hood people. I’m going to write a glowing depiction of this district of Barcelona, but you have to understand that I spent a lot of time growing up in Les Corts, and have an intimate connection to this corner of the city.

     I know I keep repeating that tourists who come to Barcelona seem to always concentrate on the area around the Ramblas - but it is true. There is so much diversity to the city of Barcelona, encompassed in the various eclectic districts that make up the fabric of the urban quilt. Travelers to this city need to realize that Barcelona during Roman times only embodied the Gothic Quarter that surrounds the main cathedral. This part of the Gothic quarter is bordered by the Ramblas to the south and the Via Laietana to the north. Both of these borders were at one time rivers that enclosed the city of Barcelona. Those who visit the original “Roman” portion of the city will see that during the Gothic period, the city was rebuilt on top of the old Roman base. In fact, there is a Museum that I highly recommend [between the Palace of the Catalan Kings and Plaza Jaume I] were you can go underground and visit the original Roman ramparts which are still in tact underneath the entire Gothic Quarter.

     As the “Gothic” part of Barcelona started bulging at the seems, wealthy Barcelonans started to build larger homes outside the original city in what is now called the “Eixample” district. The word “eixample” literally means “expansion” in Catalan. Over the centuries, the city of Barcelona started to merge with outlying independent villages, and eventually absorbed them into Barcelona. Les Corts is an example of this “swallowing” by the increasingly hungry for space monster known as Barcelona.

     Whereas Les Corts was at one time an independent village, you can still gain a sense of this small town atmosphere walking its historic core. In recent years, the area around Plaza de la Concordia and Plaza Comas has become popular with home buyers wanting a modern flat in a village setting. Apartments, both new and rehabilitated, have been springing up in the old district, flanked by gorgeous art nouveau buildings, a large church and a plethora of local cheese and pastry shops. Living in the historic core is really the best of both words. You can spend a lazy afternoon having a siesta, listening to the church bells, or walk three blocks to the mega mall called L’illa. Les corts is akin to the district of Sarria, where you can feel like you live in a small village, all the while being amidst a cosmopolitan mega-city.

     Shopping is a favorite pasttime for locals in Les Corts - as the main shopping thoroughfare Diagonal intersects the district. On Diagonal you will find a huge El Corte Ingles, the uber-expensive Pedralbes Center mall and the heady L’illa mall complete with restaurants, nightclubs and a four star hotel. Further down Diagonal Boulevard, prior to entering into the frightening roundabout automobile circus [called Plaza Francesc Macia], one will find stores such as DKNY and Armani.

     Soccer fans will be pleased to find that the Camp Nou soccer stadium and museum, home to the Barcelona Soccer team, is located in Les Corts. The stadium is off the Travessera de les Corts on the west-end of the district, and is a must for die hard Barcelona fans. It is shocking to find out that the museum housed in the stadium has more yearly visitors then any museum in the region, some years bypassing the majestic Prado museum in Madrid. Who knew!!

     One thing few tourists to this city realize is that the Les Corts district is also home to the most expensive residential neighborhood in the city - Pedralbes. Pedralbes is a must for any visitor to the city as there are many visual delights to be seen. Besides strolling through the leafy streets lined with enormous apartments or mega mansions, one must walk through the Pedralbes Palace, once home to General Franco when he visited the city. The Palace was built for the Spanish monarchs and boasts fabulous gardens and a museum. It is located on Diagonal next to the University District. Also in Pedralbes is the Pedralbes monastery which is still a working monastery with a devout group of nuns. The amber and pastel colored stone monastery is stunning, and every effort should be made to stroll its garden-lined arches and pathways. You never know, you may run into Princess Cristina of Spain, who resides in the Pedralbes area with her family, and is seen almost daily walking her children along the wide avenues.

     As you can see, Les Corts has a lot to offer. Extricate yourself for awhile from the grip of the Gothic Quarter… and discover this corner of the city.

Metro:  Green Line 3 - Les Corts or Maria Cristina stops.

 

 

 

El Born

     I’d like to focus on one of my favorite districts of the city of Barcelona - El Born. Many people think that the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona is one large area that encompasses the oldest parts of the city. While this may be true, the Gothic Quarter is divided into various districts each with its own flavor, history, architectural style and even neighborhood council. The districts vary in size and include EL Raval, La Catedral, El Barri Xines, El Born, among others.

     El Born sits on the northern edge of the Gothic Quarter bounded roughly by Carrer Princesa, the Via Laietana, the large Citadel Park and the Barceloneta District. At its heart sits the Church of Santa Maria del Mar, which to many locals, is the most beautiful cathedral in the entire city. Inside the cathedral you can still see burn marks at the top of the butresses, created during the anti-monarchist/anti-church torchings that arose during the early part of the last century. The main drag of the district is the Passeig del Born with its large trees and old market, that is currently being turned into a library highlighting its magnificent steel art nouveau style.

     At one time El Born was a very poor district where all the fishermen of the city lived. The fishing fleet would be parked in the current Old Port section, just meters from El Born, and the fishing families would spend their days drying the cod, attending church or mingling in the narrow streets. Pedestrians in El Born will at once notice that the streets in this district are narrower than in any other part of the Gothic Quarter. One can get lost in the extremely narrow and dark passages that criss-cross the district.

     During the last ten years El Born has seen a resurgence. Gone are the fishermen, and in have come the hipster 20 or 30 somethings with Diesel jeans and Adidas sneakers. Apartments in the area, which are miniscule, now run anywhere from 600,000 to over a million euros, especially for an upper floor where you can actually get some light. Given the antiquity of the district, the buildings are old and the streets are generally pedestrian only. This means that locals do not have underground parking and must park at the outskirts of the district, hoofing their groceries several blocks. The downside to the district is that it is VERY hot in the summertime and can often smell. The narrowness of the streets does not allow wind to flow through and the atmosphere can be stifling.

      Smells aside, El Born is alive with bars and restaurants that are absolutely amazing. You can walk to your hearts content and take in some tapas at any bar. Shopping is also fantastic at such local haunts like Xocoa chocolatiers or Custo Barcelona. Across the street you can venture into the old Estacio de Franca train station with its arching steel arcades, a perfectly intact emblem of the art nouveau era. In the other direction is the large Citadel Park, named after the fortess that sits at the entrance to the park. The fortress was built by a Spanish king wanting to keep Catalan extremists from exiting the city, or causing trouble. Citadel Park contains a large lake in the middle of its tree strewn expanse, with plenty of grassy corners where you can take a picnic, lie on your back and watch the fluffy clouds go by.

     Metro Yellow Line 5: Jaume I or Barceloneta stops.

     Red Line 1: Arc de Triumf stop

Port Olimpic

     I wanted to write about one of the most popular spots in Barcelona, because it is important that tourists know the reality of the Port Olimpic. The “Olympic Port” as it is called in Catalan, was created for the Olympics in 1992 as a home base for the sailing competitions. The port is framed by two imposing towers, one being the iconic Hotel Arts [a Ritz-Carlton family hotel] and the other being Torre Mapfre, which houses many corporations and software companies. [I worked on the 7th floor for several years - not that it matters]

     At one time, the novelty of the Port OIimpic brought all Barcelonans down to the water for a great meal at one of the many fine dining establishments rimming the water. However, those days are gone, and the Port Olimpic is a hedonistic drunken locale full of musical bars banging techno and salsa, and catering to the boat loads of weekend northern Europeans that dock in Barcelona. Do not go to the Port Olimpic if you desire to meet locals. Go to the Port Olimpic if you desire to get sloshed on overpriced drinks in a crowded yet beautiful setting, full of eager young people wanting to hook-up. [This isnt always bad...]

     For those desiring a more sophisticated environment at the Port Olimpic, the boardwalk that begins in front of the Hotel Arts and continues on down to the Barceloneta is a great place to stroll on a warm summer’s night. The Hotel Arts has several ranked, yet expensive dining options for those that wish to mingle with celebrities and fashion gliterati. At the beginning of the boardwalk is a Restaurant called “Bestial” which is a bit cheaper than the Hotel Arts, but has an amazing minimalist decor right on the sand. I highly recommend this restaurant, but make reservations. On down the boardwalk are a variety of restaurants which turn into nightclubs such as “Baja Beach” and “Xoco” which can be fun to get your dance-on.

Have fun, and be careful where you put those “beer goggles”!!

Cheers!

 

 

The Village of Cadaques

     Have you ever dreamed of an idyllic location where green mountains meet an an azure sea? Have you ever wanted to drink an espresso on a quiet beach, listening to the sound of lapping waves, as a hint of lavender and moss fills yours lungs? Have you ever wanted to ascend winding cobblestone streets at midnight, walking the long silent footsteps of artists and musicians that created masterpieces from the same inspiring vistas your eyes are focused on?

     Look no further - the village is called Cadaques, and knowing about it takes you half-way there.

                                   

     A two hour drive north from the city of Barcelona will transport you to a bygone era. Nestled among the foothills of the Pyrenees, as they tumble into the sea, lies a village that has been untouched by modern tourism. There are no highrises here and no rows of lounge chairs or beaches. This is where Dali lived most of his adult life, and where Magritte, Picasso and Duchamp stayed extended periods of time to paint the sweeping views. Cadaques has only had a road leading to it since the mid-part of the last century. Prior to that time, local fishermen had seen Cuba and China… and had never laid eyes on Girona, which is a city only 40 minutes away by car.

                                   

     Although the winding and narrow road past pine trees and vineyards may make you carsick, the glow of Cadaques’ glistening white church will enliven you. As you descend into the village, its warmth and history will immediately calm your senses.

     Cadaques is a definite must if you have some time to spare, preferably two days. Booking a hotel or hostel is nearly impossible during the high season [July-August] as there are very few rooms in the village. Local hotels Playa Sol, Rocamar and Blaumar are your best bet at a nice room. Hostel Maria Cristina is centrally located on the main square, and very cheap, but it is preferable that you call ahead. Hotel La Residencia was used by Dali frequently for his afternoon drink and chat sessions, and has lovely two-level rooms.

     Aside from strolling through the narrow streets of the “old town”, you must drive to Port Lligat and see Dali’s home which is now a museum. Beyond Dali’s home it’s a short jaunt to Cape Cross and its lighthouse which is the furthest point east on mainland Spain. There are two bars there where you can enjoy an Estrella beer, and take in the utterly amazing vistas of rock and ocean, conjuring up images of Galway in Ireland, or Big Sur in California.

                                        

     Once you have been to Cadaques, your heart will have been touched. People say the stones around the village and Cape Cross have mystical powers that give a man strength.

     I know for a fact that this is true…

     - From Barcelona take the A-7 freeway north towards France. Exit on the Figueres-Roses offramp and follow the signs to Roses. Before entering Roses veer off towards Cadaques. Another option is taking the Sarfa Bus from Barcelona’s Estacio del Nord. Buses run daily all year round and are very comfortable and well-equipped -

Restaurant Paco Meralgo

     Tucked away in the Eixample District is a gem of a tapas bar. We are not talking run-of-the-mill, tourist trap, 99 cent tapas encompassing a stale piece of bread with an anchovy on top. No, these are high-end, haute cuisine tapas that will make your palette sing and induce your tongue to dance Flamenco inside your mouth.

     The name of the restaurant is Paco Meralgo, which at first glance will make one think it is named after a man. However, the name is a play on words, and if you jumble the two together [pacomeralgo], it sounds like an Andalusian saying “something to eat”. It’s genius - really.

     These arent your cheap tapas, either, these may set you back a few euros. However, the food is well worth it. In fact, on a recent visit to the restaurant, we were told to arrive an hour late because the Prince of Spain and his wife Leticia had not yet finished their meal. The location is very small, and tight, and the restaurant is always bulging at the seams with people. Make sure to call ahead, or go at low meal times in Barcelona, avoiding the 2 to 4 and 9 to 11 lunch and dinner rushes. The decor is minimalist, and the centerpiece of the restaurant is a huge “U”- shaped bar where you can sit looking at all the fresh seafood and vegetables while the waiters and cooks make fun of the way you are dressed, or beat each other over the shoulders with loaves of bread regarding a soccer dispute. Half the waiters are fans of Real Madrid and the other half are fans of Barca…. this can create a conflictive environment that includes the hurling of bread.

     The environment is VERY yuppy. Be aware that you are going to where the upper-crust of Catalan society dines for a quick bite, and you will be surrounded by a sea of Polo Ralph Laurens, with a brigade of Porsche Cayennes double-parked outside. That said, the atmosphere is friendly yet loud and cramped, but the food is a new take on tapas, and well worth the effort.

     Carrer Muntaner 171

     Metro:  Hospital Clinic, Line 1

Carrer Petritxol

     There is one street in Barcelona that, to me, encompasses the old spirit of the city. Before the Olympics, before the sprawling tree-lined boulevards, even before the insanely popular tapas bars full of blond Scandinavian tourists, Barcelona was a mystical, inward-looking city full of dark narrow alleys and menacing gargoyles.

     My favorite street in all of Barcelona is Carrer Petritxol. To me, it embraces what the city used to be, amidst the frenetic modern and cosmpolitan beacon that it has become. Petritxol is very small street in length and particularly small in girth. On crowded Sundays in the summer, you may need a shoe horn to dislodge yourself from the people around you. It begins on the extremely busy shopping corridor of Carrer de la Portaferrissa. As you walk down the Ramblas you hang a left onto Porteferrisa, and immediately turn right onto Petritxol. Once on Petritxol you are immediately transported back to a time of powerful kings, naval wars and humble citizens trying to make a living. On either side of the street remain old ceramic tiles that tell stories in Catalan. Bring a dictionary or a guide because they are quite funny. The street has become a haven for art gallery’s, but the REAL reason to stroll down Petritxol, especially in the wintertime, is for the “Churros con Chocolate”.

     A favorite winter pasttime for Barcelonans is going out into the frigid air and finding a bar that sells churros with dark milky chocolate. You dunk the bready churro into the chocolate, and give your tastebuds an orgasm as the churros hit the inside of your mouth. As you head down Petritxol there is a small bar on your left that looks tiny. However, on a cold day, step into the bar, order some churros, and get ready for a caloric intake that will far exceed any time you could spend on a treadmill. It is well worth it.

     At the end of Petritxol you will find yourself in Plaza del Pi and the facade of the Church del Pi. This is a magical point in the city, especially on Sundays where there is a farmers market. The church sponsors cheap concerts for classical guitar music, and it is well worth the 15 euros to watch a concert in this majestic church.

  

Restaurant Elx

     If you were to ask anyone around the world what they thought a “Spanish” food was, undoubtedly they will utter the word “paella”. Unless you are talking to an American, who will excitedly burst out into a rant about how they love “burritos”, “tacos”, “gorditas”… etc, none of which are Spanish. However, Americans tend to think Mexican food is essentially what they serve in Spain, much like Australia is exactly like England, and the Canadian and French cultures are twin sisters. I know I am generalizing here, but is has happened to me too many times for it not to be somewhat true. How about the time I told someone in LA I was Spanish, and they proceeded to tell me how much they love Cancun. Yet, I digress.

     Paella has become to Spain what pasta is to Italy and hamburgers are to the United States. A culinary beacon that is supposed to exemplify a culture, a people and a society. Paella in truth is a Valencian invention. For the best paellas in Spain, and the world, one must go to the Valencian Autonomous region and sit in any restaurant of Castellon, Valencia or Alicante. Catalans do not make paella, nor are they very good at trying to, but just as there are tourists in Madrid and Seville, Barcelona has had to cater to the tastebuds of the weary tourist that MUST have their paella. Insert Restaurant Elx.

     The name Elx is the Valencian translation of Elche - a city in the southern Valencian region, province of Alicante, where paella is touched by the Gods. Valencian transplants created the Restaurant Elx institution years ago on Paral.lel street in southern Barcelona. It still is there, and is a cozy environment on a tiny street, decorated in crimson and burgundy. Two years ago the owners decided to expand and opened another branch on the docks next to the Maremagnum Mall, in the Port Vell District. This restaurant not only serves the best paella dishes in the city - it serves up one of the best dining experiences in general. Once you get past the gritty cargo docks and fishing trolleys, a completely glass enclosed restaurant greets you. The high walls and floor to cieling windows give Restaurant Elx a lofty ambience, where you can sip your Rioja or Cava, eat your paella, and watch the seagulls skim the top of the Mediterranean. This restaurant is well worth the trip. However, be mindful the waiter staff is typically Catalan, which means… not overly nice. The waiters are dry and abrupt, and will particularly shun your table if you act like a drunk tourist who assumes everyone speaks English.

Enjoy!

Restaurant Elx - Maremagnum, Local 9, Moll d’Espanya 5 [Metro L4 (Barceloneta)]

                                                                          

  

Mirablau Bar

     If you have traveled to Barcelona and never been “to the top” of the city, you haven’t appreciated the best thing the city has to offer. Views. Taking Carrer Balmes all the way to the top, it ends at the foot of a trolley car station on Avenida de Tibidabo. This Avenida is still almost entirely cobblestone with majestic mansions on each side of the road. At one time these were all private homes, and now house banks, modeling agencies and the odd restaurant. One such restaurant is the Asador de Aranda which is an absolute MUST if you like lamb chops, and want to eat in a gorgeous three-level home filled with mosaics and amazing views of the city.

     As you wind your way up Avenida de Tibidado it ends in a small “plaza” where you can take the funicular to Tibidabo church. However, this can be done at a later time. If there is thunderstorm forming on the horizon, and the clouds are beginning to roll in off the Mediterranean, stop into the Mirablau bar which hangs over the side of the cliff as if it were to roll into the valley below at any given moment. The top floor contains a long bar with stools all along the wall overlooking the view, and on hot days, the entire wall is slid open to reveal the sultry winds filtering up from the pine trees below. Take a seat, order an Estrella beer, and enjoy views of the entire city of Barcelona, from the airport to the south, Montjuic hill directly in front of you, the twin towers of the Port Olimpic and the meandering coastline of the maresme to the north. At your feet the city of Barcelona bubbles up and down as the buildings all seem to be competing for a bit of sunlight, and the narrow avenues of the Gothic Quarter seem to act like strings holding all the bubbles into a confined area. On stormy days, sit back with your beer and watch lightning rods play hop-scotch over the city as though they were skipping over the amalgamy of color and life below. For a moment you can feel alone, watching the interplay between nature and human activity, as an independent observer high above it all nestled among the swaying pines.

Carrer Maria Cubi

     I find that 95% of those that go to Barcelona either on vacation or for a semester abroad - tend to focus on the Ramblas area of the Gothic Quarter during their nightly drinking rituals. I just want to make something very clear to people arriving in Barcelona. NO ONE from Barcelona parties on the Ramblas! If the locals won’t - why should you, right? Right.

     With the advent of the low cost carrier, namely easyjet, Ryanair, Berlinair, etc… Barcelona has been fortunate [or unfortunate] enough to have experienced an insane influx of Brits and other northern Europeans that have decided BCN is the ideal weekend escape. Most of these “northerners” come for Stag or Hen parties, end up drunk for three days straight, pee and puke all over the Gothic Quarter of Barcelona - and then leave. Not to offend my northern friends, as I am sure that many out there come to Barcelona to lead respectable holidays, it is just what I have experienced.

     At any rate, although the Ramblas is a gorgeous part of town, and should be walked during the day to experience the amalgamy of color, the pet shops and the architecture, there are other places in the city to experience the night. One such place is a street named Maria Cubi, a few blocks north of Diagonal road, between Aribau and Plaza Francesc Macia. The street is mainly in the Sant Gervasi area of the north part of town. And guess what - you will be hard pressed to find ANY tourists! I must warn the weary traveler, however, that if you are in the mood for some Gaudi-esque night experience sipping halluconegenic absynthe on the terrace of some mosaic-filled-bizarre-shaped building, Carrer Maria Cubi is NOT the place. This is the north part of town - and this is where the rich kids go, so the ambience will be fun, young and maybe a bit stuffy. Do not wear sneakers and throw a Ralph Lauren polo shirt over that Abercrombie cut-off tee-shirt. You will then be good to go.

     The fun part about Maria Cubi is that it is a long street with bars back to back on either side of the street. None of the bars have cover charges and they are all decorated differently. The highlight of the street is called Bar Universal, which is housed in what once was a large private two-story home. The club/bar was recently redecorated and offers an upstairs non-smoking area with large white faux-leather chairs, as well as pop music, while the downstairs thumps trance and house music and allows patrons to smoke. If you pretend to speak Catalan and are very well dressed, the bouncer will not charge you a cover. Otherwise, you may have to pay. I never have… but I digress.  

     These bars close pretty early [for Spain] around 2:30-3:00, but then everyone migrates to Carrer Aribau where there ar at least 5 megaclubs back-to-back in a ritzy part of town. Some of these include Luz de Gas and Get Back. You will have fun at any of these places but I need to stress that they are a bit cheesy and play horrible pop music. However, if you have had enough to drink by 3 - you will have a blast. Lastly, on Carrer Lincoln, there is always the iconic Otto Sutz Club which was recently revamped and is very cool. Carrer Lincoln is a very small and narrow street, so you may have to ask for directions, but once inside the industrial chic layout, you can dance your bum off to hip-hop, 80’s or house… depending on the room you decide to enter. There is also a VIP area but it is quite small and the drink prices will make you think you are in Tokyo or Hong Kong - but you’re not! 

     Drink, dance and be safe!

El Xalet de Montjuic

     Normally I would not recommend a restaurant that tends to draw a lot of tourists. But here I shall make an exception. If anything so that you can admire the stunning views that this restaurant captures. The relatively new El Xalet Restaurant sits atop the Montjuic hill where almost all of the sporting events took place during the Olympics in 1992. Just down the street from El Xalet is the Olympic pool where water polo and diving took place, and further down is The Miramar Hotel which recently opened after an impressive renovation of the old state-owned television headquarters building.

      The food at El Xalet is inventive and unique, but it is NOT the best food in the city. This is not to say that it is not good food - it is just not as impressive as other restaurants in the same group, such as Tragaluz in the Eixample District. El Xalet is a restored farm house that sits on a ledge overlooking the entire city of Barcelona and the Tibidabo Hills in the background. At night, or at sunset for a drink, it will take your breath away. Not to mention that the lower floor of the restaurant is a huge space where the tables sit on a rotating floor. In essence, everyone in the restaurant can take advantage of the view. Most importantly, El Xalet has valet parking. This is a rarity in Barcelona, and as an L.A. native - a HUGE draw! Gracias El Xalet for thinking of us Los Angelenos, who believe walking more than two blocks is simply a bore.

     El Xalet

     Avinguda Miramar, 31